Three farmhouses, one long table.

Marina Patrikiou and Renaud Brossard bought the cluster at the end of 2017. It had been a goat shelter for two decades. We kept every cypress beam.

The three farmhouses were last lived in by a single family in the 1960s. We restored them with two local stonemasons, Manolis and Nikos, who insisted on the original lime mortar even when it took twice as long, and who were right.

Marina came back from twelve years as restaurant manager at Le Calandre in the Veneto. Renaud closed his cheese-maturing business in Lyon — the affinage trade that gives the house its name. We opened in spring 2020, three weeks before everything closed, and reopened the following May with six rooms, a chef calendar, and a table that seats thirty.

We have hosted thirty-two residencies since 2021 and fed about nine thousand people across that table. The only review we have ever put on a wall is a note a guest left in pencil on the back of a menu: “I came for two nights. Please don’t tell my husband I’m staying for five.” We framed it.

A timeline