09:00 to 13:00 · six places · €110, lunch included. With Stamatia, who bakes at six and has been doing so since before we arrived.
You start with the levain that was fed the night before and you find out, quickly, that the dough is warmer here than it is at home and behaves accordingly. Stamatia does not explain much. She shows you twice and then watches, and the second time she watches she says nothing, which is how you know.
The second half of the morning is matsata — the hand-rolled pasta of the island, made with nothing but flour, water and an unreasonable amount of patience.
At one o’clock you eat what you made, at the long table, with a glass of something and the bread still warm.