Artemonas
Artemonas is the quieter of the two villages on the ridge, all whitewashed lanes and neoclassical houses built by returning shipowners. Apollonia, with the shops and the square, is a ten-minute walk along a marble path.
The house is at the edge of the village where the lanes give out into terraces. There is no through traffic. You will hear the church, the wind, and at six in the morning the oven door.
