15:00 to 18:00 · six places · €140, tasting included. With Renaud, in the cellar cut into the rock beneath the house.
It is thirteen degrees down there and humid, and Renaud will tell you within the first ten minutes that this is the whole trade — that affinage is not making cheese but deciding, daily, what a wheel needs and then doing exactly that and nothing more.
You turn wheels, you brush rinds, you learn what a young Beaufort sounds like when it is struck and what it sounds like eight months later. Then you taste six cheeses in the cellar, in order, in silence for the first two.